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Discover Mid-America — August 2007

Brownville can still draw a crowd

Tiny Brownville, once the largest town in the Nebraska Territory, still attracts visitors with history, culture, civic events and lots of public spirit.

In 1880, at the height of Brownville’s boom time as a river port, more than 1,300 residents enjoyed the prosperity of the steamboat trade. Packet boats took on wood for their boilers, picked up and unloaded passengers, and did a brisk trade in hemp, salt-pork, dry goods and household items from St. Louis and other cities on the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers.

But as railroads replaced steamboats to move goods and people, Brownville declined. Anxious city fathers struggled to promote a rail crossing, but bungled the effort. The result was a boost in taxes to cover the worthless bonds. Having failed as a rail hub, Brownville declined even faster as residents fled.

But that was then. Today, Brownville is home to about 150 year-round residents. Beautiful old homes nestle in the hilly bluffs along with several museums and galleries, and a dozen or so quaint shops line the main street. In 1970, the village was designated a National Historic District with 32 historic sites. An orchard/vineyard, winery, organic grains mill, restaurant, and two bed & breakfast facilities round out the visitor amenities.

Whiskey Run Creek Winery and Vineyards, located at the west end of Main Street, dates back to the mid-1800s when beer was brewed on the site, and stored in all-brick cellars. Retired business executive Ron Curttright moved a 100-year-old barn to the site, where it straddles the creek and serves as a tasting room. The beer cellars are preserved although the beer has given way to fine wines.

Establishing the winery took nearly a full year, as the barn was renovated and rebuilt into an eye-popping tasting and meeting facility. Wine-producing equipment was installed, using state-of-the-art technology. The old beer cellars were revamped, and a vineyard was established to augment the wines brought in from other growers.

Since the winery opened, eight vineyards have been developed to produce the wine, including a 7-acre tract owned by Ron Haskett, the vintner

“All the wine is produced by local growers,” Haskett said. As he pointed out a newly added storage facility filled with cases ready for shipment. “Riesling is our newest variety. It’s one of the best sellers and very popular.”

In the past year, the winery has won prizes at the Grand Harvest competition in California and the Eastern International in New York.

In addition to Riesling, current varieties available at the winery and at retail shops in Nebraska include St. Croix, DeChaunac, Marechal Foch and Chambourcin. White wines include Edelweiss and Chardon.

“Our winery produced 10,000 gallons of wine last year,” Haskett said. “We anticipate a good harvest this year. The frost came early, spoiling many fruit trees, but we’re hopeful about the grapes.”

Probably the biggest feather in Brownville’s cap comes from its designation as an International Book Town — one of three in the United States, Brownville owes the honor to the perseverance of Jane Smith, one of the town’s boosters.

Jane and her husband, Randel, own the Spirit of Brownville riverboat that gives visitors a view of the old town that is in many ways similar to the experience of passengers on the 1800s packet boats in Brownville’s heyday.

Back in 2003, Jane decided that Brownville, with its historic background, could qualify as a book town, similar to the original at Hay-on-Wye in Wales. Working with kindred spirits in the world of books, Jane set out to convert many of the old buildings in Brownville to second-hand and antiquarian bookshops. Richard Booth, originator of the book town concept, visited Brownville and gave the town his blessing. Since then, residents of both towns have visited the other in an unofficial “sister city” camaraderie.

Today, thousands of books later, Jane can be found in her Lyceum Bookstore and Café, a large facility on Brownville’s Main Street. Lyceum occupies the former Brownville House, and is a combination of three 19th century buildings that have been painstakingly restored. Each room on the lower level features shelves with hundreds of books. Other wall spaces display works by local artists. The renovated second floor is a large reading and conference area.

Always looking ahead, Jane expressed her enthusiasm in the latest development in the book town effort. The Antiquarium, a long-time fixture in the Old Market area of Omaha for lovers of old books, is moving its massive collection of more than 100,000 volumes to Brownville next spring, Jane said. The store will occupy an old school building. The move will build on the work Jane has already done to make Brownville a travel destination for book lovers.

“Not only will the Antiquarian add a new dimension to Brownville, we’ll also have a total of nine galleries by next spring,” Jane added.

In addition to her other passions, Jane is eager to have Brownville represented as the educational hub for understanding the history, geography and culture of the Mighty Missouri.

“There’s no reason why Brownville can’t be established as a Missouri River learning center,” she said.

Bob Chitwood, president of the local historical society, said several museums occupy historical buildings in Brownville. The Brown-Carson House, Captain Bailey Museum, Gov. Furnas Museum, Dr. Spurgeon Dental Office, the Land Office and the Wheel Museum are located throughout the town. Maps are available at Lyceum. He said the society was currently restoring the old railroad depot and a caboose.

The Captain Meriwether Lewis Dredge, a restored riverboat, was operated from 1931 to 1975 by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to keep the river safe for navigation. Today, the massive boat, a National Historic Landmark, serves as a river museum operated on weekends by volunteers.

Brownville is an over-achiever in the cultural events it offers. The Brownville Concert Hall is a volunteer-driven icon in the town. Performances ranging from cabaret jazz to classical music are scheduled from April through December.

The Brownville Village Theatre celebrates its 36th year of repertory theatre performances this year. A combination of professionals and educational theatrical company members perform five plays in the theatre season, which runs from June to August.

Brownville is a trailhead for the Steamboat Trace Biking/Hiking Trail, a 21-mile, hard-surface route that extends from south of Brownville to Minersville, just south of Nebraska City. The trail follows the scenic Missouri River along the Burlington Northern rail bed. Near the Nebraska City end of the Trail is the new Lewis & Clark Visitor Center.

Brownville’s 49th annual Fall Flea Market is set for Sept. 29-30. All kinds of antiques, collectibles, crafts and food vendors will be represented. Other 2007 events in Brownville include an “Old Time Autumn” festival and quilt show Oct. 13-14, and a Christmas Tour of Homes Dec. 1-2.

For details, visit www.brownville-ne.com or www.brownvillemills-ne.com.

Ken Weyand can be reached at kweyand1@kc.rr.com

> Traveling with Ken Archive — past columns